Western Australia
Margaret River
Warm maritime climate/Elevation about 90mA report published by John Gladstones in 1965 found that this area had a similar climate to Pomerol or St Emilion, with low frost risk, plenty of sunshine and equable temperatures within the growing season promoting even ripening. Serious vineyard development began in the late 1960s. The climate is warm and maritime. Essentially the soils derive from granitic and a gneissic rock over which laterite has formed.
The region can be divided in three sub-regions: the cooler south between Yallingup and Karridale with predominantly lateritic gravelly loamy sands and sandy loams; the warm and sunnier Willyabrup in the centre with predominantly gravelly loams, but some gritty sandy loams and granitic gravels; and Margaret River in the north with similar soils, but slightly cooler temperatures. This is entirely consistent with style – the wines from Willyabrup being more generous than the highly structured wines of the north and the elegant styles of the south.
The region is also subject to southeast trade winds. The Bordeaux grape varieties have thrived, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Although Chardonnay has problems with fruit set, the wines are generally outstanding.
Vintage takes place between the end of February and mid-April. The region has established an astonishing reputation in 30 years, illustrating a consistency in quality and a strongly focussed winemaking culture.
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» Shiraz
Margaret River – better known for its Cabernet Sauvignon – makes some very approachable, but structured, Shiraz styles. These are elegantly proportioned and medium concentrated wines with intense spice, black cherry, cinnamon and raspberry aromatics, textured ripe tannins and plenty of length.
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» Cabernet Sauvignon
These wines are less opulent, but more structured than Coonawarra. Cedar and cassis aromas, wonderful purity of fruit, pronounced, yet fine, gripping tannins and acidity, and superb length, are all hallmarks of high-quality producers. Cape Mentelle, with its 1982 and 1983 Jimmy Watson Trophy-winning Cabernets, put the region on the map. Xanadu, Moss Wood, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate and Vasse Felix are making some great wine. Unlike Coonawarra, with its range of Cabernet styles, Margaret River producers seem to have reached consensus on what Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon should be. The wines are rarely over-oaked, often restrained, and the idea that a particular vineyard site brings uniqueness to the wine is enthusiastically embraced. There is a strong belief that Cabernet from the northern area around Cowaramup shows slightly riper expressions than that from other areas. Cabernets from the south have more sinewy structures.
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» Chardonnay
Despite the curses of 'poor set' by the viticulturists, Chardonnay has a huge following here. Leeuwin Estate leads the way with the benchmark Art Series Chardonnay. Its classical tropical fruit, limey and melon-like aromas, hints of cashew nut, new oak and creamy, tropical fruit flavours combined with searing natural acidity, tightly-knit structure and overall persistence, have given the wine an enviable reputation. Pierro is making equally seductive, although slightly more alcoholic, Chardonnay. Cullen is outstanding, but is more restrained, and Cape Mentelle has made some beautifully defined examples in recent years. The 1995 and 1997 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnays have consolidated Leeuwin's position at the very top of Australia's Chardonnay tree.
Andrew Caillard MW
Pemberton
Cool climate/Elevation 170mPemberton is a pioneering wine region with apparently great potential, located in the southwest of Western Australia in the heart of karri forest country, where the deep red loams and high rainfall give rise to Western Australia's tallest, most majestic forest. The first grapes were planted in 1977, with commercial plantings expanding throughout the 1980s.
The climate here is markedly cooler and slightly wetter than the Margaret River growing season. The region experiences slightly fewer sunshine hours, although it is also maritime influenced. Soils are typically brown loams derived from gneissic rock. The terrain is quite undulating with stands of karri. This region is unproven, although Pinot Noir is particularly promising. It is also well suited to the production of refined Bordeaux style wines.
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» Pinot Noir
Pemberton Pinot Noir is another example of an emerging wine style. Many believe this could be something quite special, although it is far too early to pin down regional characteristics. Many show classic cherry strawberry aromas and silky palate structure. Others can show some stalky or vegetative characters.
Andrew Caillard MW
Great Southern (Albany, Mt. Barker, Frankland River)
Cool climate/Elevation 60–250m
The underbelly of southwest Western Australia, known as the Lower Great Southern, is Western Australia’s coolest wine-growing region. The Department of Agriculture planted the first experimental vineyard in the late 1960s at Forrest Hill. Successful trials encouraged Tony Smith of Plantagenet Wines to plant the first commercial vineyard of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz in 1968. In the south around Denmark, the climate is maritime influenced becoming more continental inland. The result is quite a variation of temperatures in the growing season particularly around Mount Barker and Frankland River. Inland vineyards are generally located on higher elevations above the salty water table. Rainfall becomes increasingly unreliable towards the northern edge and frost risk increases.
The soil types are derived from granitic and gneissic rock, mostly laterite gravelly loams or sandy loams. The overall ripening season is similar to the Medoc. It is therefore no surprise that Cabernet Sauvignon, and even Merlot, do particularly well, especially around Mount Barker and Porongurup. Frankland River has a strong reputation for its Riesling, more on account of low vigour and moderate ripening conditions. Rainfall is significantly higher around Denmark, although southeast trade winds during the summer reduce susceptibility to fungal disease. This district is particularly suitable to Chardonnay.
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» Cabernet Sauvignon
Plantagenet at Mount Barker (one of Australia's first sub-regions) is leading the way with this variety, with its strong cassis-like aromas and fruit-sweet, but well-structured, palate. Howard Park is probably the most exciting winery, although its philosophy is similar to Penfolds - the Cabernets have a major Lower Great Southern component, but also contain fruit from all over WA. It is a brilliant wine, with extraordinary fruit definition and depth. Plantagenet also offers a ripe, classical impression of Cabernet.
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» Shiraz
Shiraz is a promising variety from this region, although it is difficult to define. Plantagenet is yet again a promising producer with its elegant, but well focussed, style. These wines show plenty of white pepper, red berries and forest floor nuances developing richness over time.
Andrew Caillard MW