Victoria
Grampians, VIC
Warm climate/Elevation 240-350mThe Grampians is located in western Central Victoria and settled during the gold rush of the 1850s. Indeed Seppelt at Great Western was built at the end of the gold rush when scores of out-of-work prospectors excavated its extensive drives and cellars. The Grampians embraces the viticultural centres of Great Western and Ararat at elevations of 240 to 350m. The region, while essentially cool, experiences long sunshine hours and low rainfall. Supplementary irrigation is needed.
The climatic data suggests that Clare is essentially continental with hot summers and cool/cold winters. However, the vineyards are mostly located at higher elevations than the weather stations. For instance, Petaluma’s Hanlin Hill is at about 500m. During the growing season moderating cool breezes funnel up the Clare’s corrugation of hills and gullies from the south. The soils are red brown, chocolatey loams over shale allowing excellent drainage. Although snow is rare, the chill factor is something to behold. Some of the older vines are planted in the valley floor, originally to take advantage of the deep water holding capacity of the soils, as rainfall is relatively low. With the advantages of supplementary irrigation, many of the best vineyard sites are located on higher elevations or towards the south of the valley. Polish Hill and Watervale are important sub-regions.
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» Shiraz
In a good vintage the Grampians area, as typified by Mount Langi Ghiran and Seppelt Great Western, can produce some of the best Shirazes in the country. These are quintessential Australian cool-climate Shirazes with intense, pepper/spice aromas, fine tannins, concentration and lovely fruit purity. The wines develop a complex matrix of aromas, the best showing an earthy, gamey, peppery bouquet and beautifully rich and textured palates. These are profoundly important wines, an outstanding foil to the richer and opulent Shirazes of McLaren Vale and the Barossa.
Andrew Caillard MW
Pyrenees, VIC
Warm climate/Elevation 350-450mThe Pyrenees is located in western Central Victoria and was settled during the gold rush of the 1850s. The Australian Pyrenees, at the most southerly part of the Great Dividing Range, are located about 70km northwest of the Grampians. Many of the vineyards are planted at an altitude of around 350 to 400m on quartz and decomposed slatey soils over friable clay with easterly aspect. Rainfall is generally quite low necessitating drip irrigation. Late afternoon southerly breezes moderate temperatures during the growing season. This region is particularly suited to Shiraz and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Sauvignon. Some excellent Chardonnays are also being produced.
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» Shiraz
Encompassing the Bendigo and Pyrenees districts of Victoria, these Shirazes show immense pepper-and-spice aromas and massive fruit concentration with quite finely structured tannins. They often develop meaty, gamey bouquets and silken palates. There are, however, differing styles. In the Pyrenees district, the philosophy is for more restrained, structured wines. The 1996 Taltarni Shiraz is quite Rhone-ish, with intense, ripe, blackberry and raspberry aromas, indelible acidity and pronounced tannins. In time, the wine will develop a quite pruney, licorice and earthy bouquet and the palate will soften out. Dalwhinnie is a similar but far more concentrated style with a strong following.
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» Cabernet Sauvignon
Pyrenees Cabernet is an evolving style and is in some respects in the shadow of Shiraz. The Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon is an elegantly structured wine, with earthy, cassis-like aromas and underlying oak, ripe tannins and fruit sweetness balanced by marked acidity. Taltarni is going through a period of experimentation at all levels as it redefines its style - the fruit is being picked at riper levels of sugar and flavour, vinification is being refined and attention has now been given to oak treatment. Older vintages have been restrained and elegant with earthy tones and plenty of interesting complexity. The best is probably yet to come.
Andrew Caillard MW
Heathcote, VIC
Warm climate/Elevation 130-300mThe Heathcote wine region is located in Central Victoria about 100km north of Melbourne and 50km west of the Goulburn Valley. This is classic rolling Australian countryside punctuated by eucalypts and rounded hills. The best vineyards are located on the Heathcote red snake – a strip of Cambrian-derived soils of friable red brown gravelly loams that run in a thin north-south non-continuous direction. The region is warm with strong continentality, but enjoys an even temperature range during ripening. Vineyards are elevated at about 300m and rainfall is limited. The best vineyard sites are probably yet to be discovered, although its wines – particularly Shiraz – have already captured the imagination of a whole generation of wine drinkers.
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» Shiraz
Jasper Hill, at Heathcote, produces a Shiraz that is concentrated and oak driven. Georgia's Paddock and Emily’s Paddock are both outstanding examples. They are complex, ripe, plummy, meaty wines with abundant fruit, ripe, but pronounced, tannins and concentration. Wild Duck Creek has also become recognised for its rich opulent Shirazes. Its curiously named, but delightfully silly, Duck Muck Shiraz drew gushing enthusiasm from the highly influential Robert Parker making this wine one of the most expensive Australian Shirazes on the secondary market. Heathcote Shiraz is still in evolution and difficult to define. There are certainly more elegantly structured styles. However, what makes Heathcote so exciting is that it can make fabulous wines already.
Andrew Caillard MW
Macedon Ranges, VIC
Cool Climate/Elevation 500-690mThe first vines were planted in the Macedon region (also known as the Macedon Ranges) by Tom Lazar at Virgin Hills above Kyneton. The area was also pioneered by Knight’s Granite Hills and Cope-Williams. The Macedon region, an hour’s drive north east of Melbourne, is regarded as one of the coolest mainland wine regions, so cool that viticulture was considered a risky venture. By the early 1980s a number of enthusiasts had already debunked the theory and planted vineyards, mostly to the early ripening varieties Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This is a region that is, for Australia, at relatively high elevation. Mount Macedon is 1000 metres high. The region is largely of volcanic origin with skeletal soils ranging from grey granitic sandy loams to weathered basalt clay. The topography is undulating, sometimes steep, with the best sites in the lee of the prevailing winds. Most of the vineyards are elevated to around 500 metres with frost risks fairly high in early spring and late autumn. Elevated at 690 metres Mount Macedon is the highest vineyard. In some colder sites vignerons use overhead sprinklers. Rainfall is around 890mm per year. Ripening is the major issue. Some early plantings of Cabernet have been grafted over to Pinot Noir.
The region has become noted for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and sparkling wines. Bindi, Hanging Rock and Virgin Hills are the most prominent secondary market wines although Cope-Williams, Cleveland and Rochford are also well regarded.
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» Pinot Noir
Macedon is quickly achieving a strong cult following for its beautifully aromatic, well- concentrated and balanced Pinot Noirs. Bindi and Rochford are leading the way. The region has yet to show a strong body of work.
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» Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Malbec Blend
The only Cabernet driven wine making an impression is Virgin Hills. Its vineyard is planted on a marginal site. New ownership and a commitment to improving quality may indeed bring this wine back to its glory days. They are restrained styles with blackcurrant/cedar aromas and a compact palate structure.
Andrew Caillard MW
Sunbury, VIC
Cool climate/Elevation 35m
Sunbury is a cool region of gently undulating plains located close to greater Melbourne’s north-west boundary. It leans towards continentality consequently frost risk is greater. Most vineyards are planted on the alluvial river flats, the soil essentially sand over river stones. This area was first planted in 1863, although the local industry disappeared in the late 1920s to later reappear in the 1970s. The vineyards are mostly vertically shoot positioned to increase exposure to sunlight. The growing season is relatively cool and dry compared to the Yarra Valley. Vintage takes place around mid-April/early May.
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» Shiraz
Sunbury Shiraz, as typified by Craiglee, is a more restrained style of Shiraz with earthy raspberry notes, some white pepper nuances and fine structured/elegant palate. These wines develop richness with age. Craiglee Sunbury Shiraz is regarded as one of the top Shirazes in Victoria. There are other producers, but this is really a very new wine region despite its interesting early history.
Andrew Caillard MW
Geelong, VIC
Cool maritime climate/Elevation 10-100m
Geelong is located about 80km southwest of Melbourne and was initially established by Swiss immigrants in 1842. It was one of Victoria’s pioneering wine districts and enjoyed considerable success during the 1860s and 1870s. The chill factor over winter is bone crunching. In spring, blustery cool winds are quite prevalent and can affect flowering and fruit set. Soils are diverse, mostly volcanic over limestone with some lesser quality black soils. Rainfall is moderate and even throughout the calendar year. Blustery weather during spring can affect ripening. By the late 1870s, phylloxera was discovered. Vignerons were told to uproot their vines by the Legislative Assembly bringing the wine industry to a virtual halt. The area was re-established in the late 1960s. It is Bannockburn Vineyards, however, that put this region on the quality map in the mid 1980s.
As a wine region Geelong is disparate with too few standout wines to define its style. The best wines seem to be made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Shiraz.
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» Pinot Noir
The region is very cool – ideal for Pinot Noir. Bannockburn’s Pinot Noirs are exceptional. Its tete de cuvee Serre Pinot Noir and classified Pinot Noirs are beacons of quality. Scotchman’s Hill is also making an impression. s
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» Chardonnay
Bannockburn’s Chardonnays are also of exceptionally high quality. Its tete de cuvee SRH Chardonnay, as well as its classified Chardonnay, are likewise beacons of quality.
Andrew Caillard MW
Mornington Peninsula, VICs
Cool maritime climate/Elevation 1-200m
Mornington Peninsula is located to Melbourne’s south. The region is virtually frost-free, but is susceptible to high winds. Rainfall is moderate, even through winter and the growing season. Most of the vineyards are located between just above sea level and 200 metres. Soils range from weathered volcanic soils to sandy loams and friable well-drained clays. The Bordeaux varieties do better at altitudes below 100m, unless in particularly warm and protected sites. Vintages can be variable but, in good years, Mornington can make some of the most sublime Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Gris also show potential.
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» Chardonnay
It is too early to recognise this region as the producer of a defined Chardonnay style. Without question, some of the most seductive and beautifully made Chardonnays in Australia come from around Melbourne. Again, the Burgundian model is often on show. The best producers make classically proportioned Chardonnay with complex, cashew nut and tropical fruit aromas and plenty of new oak vanillin. The Mornington Peninsula is as unreliable as Burgundy itself, often failing to ripen fruit adequately. Chaptalisation (addition of sugar to the ferment) is not an option in Australia, so producers can struggle. The tiny Main Ridge is making some of the best Chardonnay in the country, but it is hard to get. Stonier Reserve is also impressive.
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» Pinot Noir
Mornington Peninsula is probably doing more for Pinot Noir than anywhere else. In a good vintage, this region is capable of making some of the most aromatic and silky Pinot Noirs in Australia. Stoniers, Port Phillip Estate, Main Ridge, Mooruduc, Massoni, Red Hill Estate and Paringa Estate are examples of high achievers.
Andrew Caillard MW
Yarra Valley, VIC
Cool climate/Elevation 50-400m
The Ryrie brothers, who explored a way through the Snowy Mountains to the Yarra Valley, planted grapes in 1838 only three years after the foundation of Melbourne by John Batman. A wine industry - developed by Swiss Settlers (particularly Hubert de Castella and Baron Guillaume de Pury) in the 1850s - thrived during the gold rush era and hey-day of the 19th century. The Yarra Valley wine industry died in the early 1920s, but was kick started again in the 1970s. The region is probably Australia’s best-known cool-climate area, yet it is really a patchwork of meso-climates. The more exposed sites are subject to severe spring frosts and winds.
The area experiences a relatively high rainfall pattern and is known for its temperature extremes during ripening. Site selection seems to be a major issue – the best appear to be located where vines were once planted – generally on sandy clay loams and gravels. Hence Yeringberg and Yarra Yering have enjoyed apparent consistency. Mount Mary, on similar soils, has achieved an almost mythical reputation. Some vineyards, however, are planted on more fertile red volcanic soils and just don’t appear to show the same degree of success. The topography of the Yarra Valley creates an incredible set of variables. Vineyards are planted on elevations of 50 to 400m on varying aspects and management programmes.
The Yarra Valley is well known for its Cabernet Blends, but this is based on the performance of just a few producers. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can be quite exquisite, while Shiraz is variable. Sparkling wine production has become extremely important. The Yarra Valley produces some of Australia’s best.
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» Pinot Noir
Yarra Valley is emerging as a new classic region for Pinot Noir. In fact, the so-called 'Melbourne Dress Circle', regions dotted around Melbourne, all have good potential. They include Geelong and Mornington Peninsula. It is probably premature to describe Yarra Valley Pinot Noir as a classic style. Mount Mary and Yarra Yering have been making them for years and they are completely different from each other. The Mount Mary is more classical, showing good fruit definition and purity, whereas Yarra Yering is a very individual, highly concentrated, if not soupy style. Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir, De Bortoli, Yarra Ridge and Tarrawarra have done much to impress Pinotphiles. These wines are quite Burgundian in style, indeed, almost caricatures. Recent auction results show a strong interest in Australian Pinot Noir, with the name of the producer most important.
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» Cabernet Sauvignon
Yarra Valley was originally developed in the 1850s and is a very old wine region. After many years of decline, if not wine death, the Yarra Valley has emerged as an important Cabernet Sauvignon producer. The idiosyncratic trio of Mount Mary, Yarra Yering and Coldstream Hills reflects the enormous range of Cabernet style and character that this region brings. The Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 1 style is dense and powerful, with enormous depth and balance, and needs years to come together. The 1986 vintage is now ready to drink, with a lovely meaty complexity and textured palate. The Mount Mary is a more restrained style with the emphasis on structure. The 1990 is brilliant, with extraordinary fruit definition, blackcurrant/cassis, cedary aromas, fine-grained tannins, concentration and length. Arguably the finest Cabernet of the entire Australian 1990 vintage. A string of good recent vintages, particularly 1998, should bring new wines into focus.
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» Chardonnay
It is too early to recognise the Yarra Valley as the producer of a defined Chardonnay style. Without question, some of the most seductive and beautifully made Chardonnays in Australia come from around Melbourne. Again, the Burgundian model is often on show. The best producers make classically proportioned Chardonnay with complex, cashew nut and tropical fruit aromas and plenty of new oak vanillin. Coldstream Hills (especially the Reserve) makes classic Burgundian style Chardonnay, while Mount Mary makes a highly individual complex style with proven cellaring potential. Yarra Yering Chardonnays are variable and fail to inspire. De Bortoli and Tarrawarra are making some really lovely complex wines, although their investment value still lies in the pleasure of drinking.
Andrew Caillard MW
Goulburn Valley & Nagambie Lakes, VIC
Warm climate/Elevation 130-300m
The Goulburn wine region is located in Central Victoria about 100km north of Melbourne and 50km east of Heathcote. The Central Goulburn Valley, which centres on the towns of Seymour and Nagambie, has a warm climate with strong continentality. The lazy Goulburn River dissects the region and has washed the red and brown sandy clay loams with alluvial sands. Most of the vineyards are located on old river flats close to the river. Temperatures fluctuate enormously during the growing season creating a stressful environment for vines. Rainfall is low, although the region has experienced the occasional vintage washout. The most suited variety is Shiraz as typified by Mitchelton and Tahbilk.
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» Shiraz
From a secondary market perspective, Chateau Tahbilk and Mitchelton dominate this region. Tahbilk 1860s Vines Shiraz - made from fruit grown on a small patch of pre- phylloxera vines - is a rarity indeed and is arguably the most famous wine of this region. A wine of immense proportions, it has earthy plum, mulberry-like aromas, pronounced rusty tannins and plenty of structure. Its Reserve Shiraz – from 1933 vines – has a plumper style and is very impressive. Mitchelton Print Shiraz is a more classic modern style with partial barrel fermention. It shows more intense plum blackberry aromas, underlying oak, some meaty complexity, pronounced, but riper, tannins and plenty of concentration and length.
Andrew Caillard MW
Rutherglen, VIC
Warm climate/Elevation 160m
Rutherglen in north-east Victoria - known for its fortified wines, particularly its Muscats and Tokays – has produced a distinctive Australian style. The region was first discovered in 1836. George Frederick Morris established his vineyard in 1859. During the late 1880s, Rutherglen enjoyed a substantial export market to the UK, but experienced harder economic conditions during the 20th century. It is the sheer quality of the wine that has kept the region going. The climate here is warm to hot, with a high degree of continentality and low relative humidity. The soils range from gravels to red and sandy alluvial loams. It is generally considered that the best vineyards are located on red loamy soils. Most of the vineyards, at around 160m, are on gentle slopes and close to the Murray River.
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» Liqueur Muscat & Liqueur Tokay
These are opulent and luscious fortified wines. Because they do not have vintage dates, they rarely perform on the secondary market. These styles are blends of several vintages. Often base material will be as old as 50 or 60 years. They are phenomenal wines and will bring joy to any serious wine lover with their rich, rancio aromas and decadently luscious flavours. The only profit is in the drinking.
Andrew Caillard MW
Beechworth, VIC
Cold climate/Elevation 400-500m
Beechworth has attracted considerable interest in recent years, generated by the enthusiasm for the reclusive Giaconda wines. The vineyards, taking into account Beechworth’s high level of sunshine hours, are generally planted at altitudes of around 400m. The region is cool with high continentality so site selection is vitally important. The best sites are located away from higher altitude, cold-air drainage channels, with the risk of frost high in both spring and autumn. The soils are granitic loams over decomposed gravels and clays. While north or north-easterly slopes may generally be favoured, Giaconda’s vines are planted on protected south-facing slopes.
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» Pinot Noir
Beechworth Pinot Noir is yet to appear as a regional style. In the meantime, it is entirely expressed through the wines of Giaconda. The style is highly regarded and keenly sought. The wines have plenty of strawberry/dark cherry/meaty aromas and flavours with fine attenuated tannins. More recent vintages are impressive.
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» Chardonnay
Giaconda’s Beechworth Chardonnay is a Helen of Troy. Its sheer beauty has launched a scramble of suitors wishing to emulate this wine. It is hardly a regional style yet, although it must reflect its vineyard site and the sheer potential of this region. Giaconda’s Chardonnay is a classic style with excellent fruit definition and creamy flavours, all balanced by deft oak handling and fine acid cut. The wines appear to benefit from cellaring, which puts them into the elite league of Australian Chardonnay. This is an exciting wine with so much complexity and interest.
Andrew Caillard MW
Gippsland, VIC
Cool climate/Elevation 30-100m
Gippsland is named after a former Governor of Victoria and comprises the south-eastern underbelly of Victoria extending from Phillip Island in the south to the southern border of New South Wales to its northeast. Topographically, it is comprised of coastal plains and the predominantly south-facing slopes of the foothills of the Great Dividing Range. The area is similar in size to Belgium with varying meso-climates and soil compositions. The coastal regions comprise silty and chocolatey loams over sedimentary and volcanic derived rock. The foothills – largely undeveloped – are made up of sedimentary and weathered granitic and volcanic soils.
South Gippsland, the coolest and wettest sub-region, is located about 100km east of Melbourne. Its climate is similar to the Yarra Valley, although there is a greater maritime influence. The best sites are in more elevated and protected positions planted on deep silty loams with a high iron content and northeasterly aspects. This is an emerging region with a reputation largely forged by Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip. Here is an example where meso-climate is modified by the human factor. His vineyards are close-spaced and each vine is given inordinate attention. East Gippsland, which lies between two prevailing weather patterns, can experience periods of drought and, at times, heavy rainfall during ripening. This sub-region shows some promise for its Cabernet Sauvignon driven wines.
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» Pinot Noir
It is not really possible to define Gippsland Pinot Noir. Bass Phillip near Leongatha makes some of Australia’s most extraordinary Pinot Noir, yet it is made in painfully small quantities. At the esoteric end, the wines are extraordinarily intense and perfumed with black cherry/meaty/floral aromas and flavours and beautifully textured palates. Yet these wines reflect extremely low-cropping levels and intensive care. Commercial reality inevitably means a spectrum of wine quality. Gippsland is an emerging wine region with plenty of potential.
Andrew Caillard MW

