New South Wales
Hunter Valley| Mudgee | Orange | Riverina (Murrumbidgee) |
Southern NSW (Canberra District & Hilltops)|
Hunter Valley, NSW
Hot climate/Elevation 75-250mThe Hunter Valley is the most important quality wine-producing region in New South Wales, even though it represents only eight per cent of the State’s production. Established in the early 1800s, the first vignerons recognised that the coastal fringe north of Sydney was just too wet and humid, so moved into the hinterland. Edward Tyrrell planted his first vines in 1858, and had his first vintage in 1864, beginning a family tradition of winemaking in the Hunter Valley. Indeed Tyrrell’s still harvests Shiraz fruit from blocks planted in 1879 and 1892 which together represent almost five hectares of century-old vines. Although it can be particularly hot, the cloud and rainfall patterns modify the microclimate remarkably. The area is maritime influenced with afternoon sea breezes funnelling up through the Hunter River/Goulburn River Gap. Rainfall is very erratic and can arrive at the most inopportune time. Soils are generally rich volcanic and alluvial soils.
The best vineyard sites appear to be located within sight of the imposing Brokenback Range that is exposed to the cool sea breezes. Further inland the maritime influence gives way to a greaterdegree of continentality. The area is hotter and drier, although it can often experience rain towards vintage. The wine industry here competes with the local coal industry. Hunter Valley Shiraz and Semillons can be exceptional. Some producers have been successful with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
» Cabernet Blends
When Max Lake first planted Cabernet Sauvignon in the Hunter Valley, local vignerons and growers said that the Lower Hunter was totally unsuited to this variety. Opinion is polarised. Some suggest that the microclimate – if you take into account the length of daylight during summer – is not too far from warmer European regions such as Bordeaux or the Rhone. The proof, however, is in the pudding. Hunter Cabernet lurches from the classic cedary, fine-grained styles like Lake’s Folly to more opulent fruit bomb styles. It’s all weather-depending really as, in some years, this early ripening variety can be caught in the rain resulting in dilute wines. In a classic vintage, the wines do have good ageing potential. Some of the Lake’s Folly Cabernets are brilliant as aged wines.
» Semillon
The best Hunter Valley Semillons are invariably unoaked and are some of the lowest alcohol wines produced in Australia. When young they show herbaceous, tropical fruit aromas, quite lean palates and good acid backbone. The ageing process sees these wines develop remarkably. The primary aromas give way to a complex, honeyed, straw-like bouquet. The palate fleshes out with concentrated honey/straw flavours, apparent fruit sweetness, cutting acid and great length. This is a misunderstood style favoured by passionate wine enthusiasts and many in the wine trade. Yet it has generally failed to ignite interest in the secondary market except for specific vintages and wines: 1970 Lindemans, 1979 Rothbury Estate, 1984 McWilliams Lovedale and 1986 Tyrrell's Vat 1 are all classic wines.
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» Shiraz
Once seen as the classic red wine of Australia, Hunter Shiraz may well bounce back as buyers seek a variety of Shiraz experiences. Its reputation has been somewhat tarnished over the years as the region has become more commercialised. Tyrrell's, Brokenwood, Tamburlaine, Rothbury Estate and others are doing much to win back the confidence of fine wine buyers. The early leaders, Lindemans and McWilliams, after rather dull performances in the 1980s, are on the comeback trail, too. Classic Hunter Valley Shiraz shows an opulent, complex, plummy/earthy/leathery bouquet with concentrated, earthy flavours, plenty of fruit sweetness, ripe tannins and length. The term 'sweaty saddle' has often been used to describe old Hunters. The smell of an old Chesterfield sofa is another description. Too much of these characteristics, I think, destroy the wine. The best Hunters can age for decades. Witness the dense and brooding 1965 Lindemans Bin 3100 Hunter River Burgundy. Some of the old Maurice O'Shea wines from the late 1940s and early 1950s have also stood the test of time. More recent classics are the 1986 and 1991 Tyrrell's Vat 9. The 1998 Brokenwood Graveyard is a very great wine.
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» Chardonnay
Hunter Valley Chardonnay comes in a plethora of styles from the innocuous to the refined. From the rich and unctuous, deep yellow, oaky darlings to the tightly structured and beautifully defined Tyrrell's Vat 47, it is a wine with proven ageing capacity. Rosemount Roxburgh is a marketing-driven wine that is found in the fridge or on board the boat of many a captain of industry. Indeed, Rosemount Show Reserve may well be the better wine with its excellent varietal definition, fruit sweetness and balance. Lake's Folly makes a punter's Chardonnay rather than a critic's choice. Wine writers often slam it, yet it can be excellent. Cork taint problems in the early 1990s have been no help. Most Chardonnays from this region, however, are early drinking styles.
Mudgee, NSW
Warm climate/Elevation 500-600mMudgee, in the central west of New South Wales, is an up-and-coming Shiraz region. Located in the crater of an extinct volcano, this area has a viticultural history spanning almost 150 years. The first vines were planted in 1858 during the gold rush of that time. Curiously, however, the region came to prominence only in the 1970s. Huntington Estate, established in the late 1960s, has produced some exceptional Shiraz-based wines. The last decade has seen significant capital investment ploughed into this region. Rosemount and Orlando are particularly active. The climate is warm to hot, with a high degree of continentality, and spring frosts are a problem. Soils are generally sandy loams and red sandy clay loams. The best vineyard sites are located at elevations of around 500m on slopes. Rosemount has done much to attract attention to this region. Mudgee has witnessed an astonishing level of new plantings. Very much a region in evolution. Chardonnay Some of the oldest Chardonnay vines can be found in Mudgee with plantings dating back to the 1930s and earlier. However, the Hunter Valley – through Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay – began the inexorable pathway to success. Mudgee Chardonnay ranges from the elegantly structured to the thick milkshake style. The arrival of Rosemount, known as Chardonnay specialists, has given an upbeat feeling about this region.
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» Shiraz
The wine capitalists somehow bypassed Mudgee during the 1960s and 1970s. Most went to the Hunter Valley leaving a small, dedicated group of winemaking pioneers to do all the hard work. Mudgee Shiraz has had a keen niche market for years, but the style is actually difficult to define. The wines certainly have plenty of blackberry liquorice fruit, concentration and pronounced gravely tannins. Better vintages show plenty of chocolatey flavours and palate softness. Mudgee could well express the ultimate Australian marriage of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.
» Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon
In the last five years, Mudgee Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon is turning heads. It is a classic story of how people value things once they are packaged in a particular way. Mudgee’s reputation is swathed in the reflected glory of Rosemount’s marketing and winemaking flair. Yet Huntington Estate has been making some excellent wines for years. The fruit opulence and sweetness of Shiraz is meshed in with the fine, grainy tannin structure of Cabernet Sauvignon bringing wines with plenty of ageing potential. Mudgee has never looked so exciting.
Andrew Caillard MW
Orange, NSW
Cool climate/Elevation 600-850mOrange, in the central west of New South Wales, came to prominence in 1851 with the first find of payable gold at nearby Ophir. The region has attracted significant capital investment in viticultural development over the last decade. The region is dominated by Mount Canobolas, an extinct volcano, which rises to almost 1400m. Most of the vineyards are north and north-east facing and located at altitudes of around 600m to 800m. At higher elevations, the vineyards are planted on predominantly red volcanic soils. At lower sites, the soils are mainly loess. The region experiences a high degree of continentality so spring frosts and hail can be a problem. In winter, the vineyards will often get a brushing of snow. Rosemount has done much to highlight the region’s potential. Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot all show potential, although this area has yet to really prove itself. This is a relatively new wine region and it is therefore difficult to pin down a regional style. Chardonnay The Chardonnays range from the lean and mean to the more classically proportioned illustrating a region with diverse resources and winemaking philosophies. Rosemount is probably the best known with plenty of fruit elegance and leesy complexity. However, these are certainly not investment wines.
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» Chardonnay
The Chardonnays range from the lean and mean to the more classically proportioned illustrating a region with diverse resources and winemaking philosophies. Rosemount is probably the best known with plenty of fruit elegance and leesy complexity. However, these are certainly not investment wines
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» Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz
As Orange is a relatively new wine region, there is simply not enough vintage history or wines produced. Indeed some plantings on warmer sites have yet to come into fruition. Early indications suggest these wines show a cooler spectrum of flavours showing some raspberry/ blackberry aromas and peppery nuances. These wines may age extremely well, but it is too early to place them as investment wines.
Andrew Caillard MW
Southern NSW (Canberra District & Hilltops), NSW
Cool climate/Elevation 300-800mThe Hilltops and Canberra District wine regions, in the south of New South Wales, are located on the flanks of Great Dividing Range, a spinal cord of foothills, tablelands and mountain ranges that lie along the eastern seaboard of Australia. This area was largely opened up by European graziers during the 1830s and is world famous for its merino sheep and quality of its wool. Gold was discovered progressively during the 1850s opening up new settlements and attracting immigrants. This is also classic bushranging country with its vast undulating and crumpled landscape, hidden valleys and timbered wilderness. In more recent times this area has attracted market gardening, fruit growing, tourism and light industry. The bushrangers have been replaced by Australia’s Federal seat of government at Canberra.
Wine growing is a relatively recent phenomenon, the first vineyards planted in the late 1960s. As a generalization the area is quite elevated with vineyards at between 300 and 800 metres. The climate is largely continental and although the heat summation index suggests a cool climate, summers are often hot with prolonged sunshine hours. The geological history of Southern New South Wales is extremely complex and spans two billion years. Active continental growth has seen widespread volcanic activity, sedimentation, granite intrusions and intense folding and faulting. The Hilltops region is located on south-western slopes. It is largely granitic-based and attracts greater summer rainfall. Mc William’s Barwang vineyard is an exemplary site.
The Canberra district located on elevated tablelands (about 500m) is much drier during the growing season requiring irrigation. Spring frosts can be a problem – although most vineyards have been rigorously sited. Soils are granitic to sedimentary. Clonakilla Shiraz-Viognier epitomizes the sheer potential of this district.
Andrew Caillard MW
Riverina (Murrumbidgee), NSW
Hot dry climate/Elevation 140mThe Riverina district was settled by Italian immigrants and returned soldiers who established large-scale market gardening and grape growing in an area supplied by the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme. Although some wine producers claim to have established themselves earlier, this region didn’t really get going until the 1950s. The Riverina is famous for inexpensive fortified and table wines. In 1982 De Bortoli released its Botrytis Semillon ‘Sauternes’ creating consternation among wine critics. It appeared ludicrous that this region could make a dessert wine of such finesse and quality. The wine, with almost two decades of production, continues to enhance its reputation with sheer consistency and quality. The region is hot and dry with plentiful sunshine and vines planted on medium to heavy clay loams. The vineyards are managed to ensure a high level of humidity between the vines to promote botrytis. Botrytis Semillon The Riverina is better known as a broad-acre vineyard region producing wines of very commercial quality. De Bortoli pioneered the botrytis Semillon style in the early 1980s with others following suit. The De Bortoli Noble One style has become an Australian classic very quickly. The wines show lovely deep yellow colour, apricot-honey aromas and a luscious tremendously concentrated palate with plenty of dried apricot/peach/honey flavours. This is all balanced by fine attenuated acidity that brings life, length and lasting power to the wine.
Andrew Caillard MW